You just got a bare shell back. Now what?

The most common mistake after a strip is treating bare metal as a finished state. It is not. It is the least stable the steel will ever be.
The first 24 hours
- Get it indoors and dry. Humidity is the enemy.
- Do not handle it bare-handed. Skin oils leave marks that show up under primer.
- Blow out every seam and cavity. Residual media in a box section will rattle out onto fresh paint later.
The first week
- Epoxy primer. Not a self-etch, not a filler primer — a proper sealing epoxy is what stops the clock.
- Photograph everything before it disappears under primer. Bare metal is the only time you can see every previous repair.
- Do the metalwork now if you are doing it. Welding through primer is worse than welding on bare steel.
What not to do
Do not leave it under a tarp outside. Do not put filler on bare steel — it goes over primer. And do not wait for a booth slot that is a month away; prime it yourself and let the painter sand it.
The dry air here helps, but a bare shell sitting in an unheated shop near Redcliff or Dunmore through a wet week will still flash. Plan the next coat before the blasting is booked, not after.
Talk it through with Matt.
Call 403-702-4435 or text a photo of the job for a straight answer.
Fastest way to a number: text a photo of what needs blasting to 403-702-4435.
Keep reading.

Wet vs dry blasting on body panels
Friction heat is what warps sheet metal. Why water in the stream is not a preference on thin panels — it is the whole reason the job works.
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Blasting for a frame-off restoration
What to strip, what order to do it in, and the mistakes that cost people a second round of preparation.
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Wheels: stripping alloys properly before refinishing
Brake dust, curb rash and failed clear coat. What comes off, what to watch on alloy, and why the prep decides the finish.
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