Wheels: stripping alloys properly before refinishing

Wheels are one of the most satisfying things we do and one of the easiest to get wrong, because alloy is softer than the steel most people picture.
What is actually on them
- Failed clear coat, usually peeling from the face outward.
- Baked-on brake dust, which is abrasive and corrosive.
- Previous refinishing, sometimes several layers.
- Corrosion under the coating, particularly around the bead seat.
Alloy needs a lighter hand
Aluminium is soft. Aggressive media at high pressure will texture the surface, round off machined edges and ruin any polished or diamond-cut face permanently. Media and pressure come down accordingly.
The bead seat matters
Corrosion on the bead seat is a common cause of slow leaks. Stripping the wheel shows you whether that is your problem, and gives the sealing surface a proper clean-up.
Then coat them quickly
Bare aluminium oxidises fast. If they are going to powder coat, get them there promptly rather than leaving them on a bench for a fortnight.
Winter road salt on the Trans-Canada through Medicine Hat and Redcliff gets under wheel finishes and lifts them from the bead seat outward, which is why the damage is often worse than it looks from the face.
Talk it through with Matt.
Call 403-702-4435 or text a photo of the job for a straight answer.
Fastest way to a number: text a photo of what needs blasting to 403-702-4435.
Keep reading.

Wet vs dry blasting on body panels
Friction heat is what warps sheet metal. Why water in the stream is not a preference on thin panels — it is the whole reason the job works.
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Blasting for a frame-off restoration
What to strip, what order to do it in, and the mistakes that cost people a second round of preparation.
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Media blasting vs chemical dipping a shell
Dipping reaches everywhere. Blasting leaves a profile. A straight comparison of the trade-offs on a full body shell.
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